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Christmas in Rome
Private Mass at St Peter's and the Eternal City in lights — Rome in the most ceremonial week of its year, for the traveller who wants to attend it properly. There is a particular hour on the morning of the twenty-fifth of December in St Peter's Basilica — somewhere between half-past nine and ten, when the Pope's Midnight Mass of the previous night has been concluded for some hours and the morning's papal Mass has not yet begun — when the great basilica is at its most still. T
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